The Elusive Lower Falls

September 4, 2024 — Day 4

Letchworth State Park, Castile, NY

Now that we had the lay of the land we knew what lay south of us – that pretty 20-30 minute drive – we were off to try and find the Lower Falls. But first it was time for lunch. Although the Parkland Diner was fun we also know that with minimal preparation we can easily pack a lunch to eat while taking in a beautiful view at one of the many overlooks. We went back to one from yesterday where we saw a couple having a picnic lunch. As we were enjoying “our” spot another couple sat down on a bench about 25 yards from us but minutes later they got up and moved about 50 yards further away. Oh well, I guess we smelled bad. Or, something.

Oh, we stopped again at the Big Bend overlook just to see it in the morning, not evening light.

The Lower Falls are the hardest one of the 3 to get to. There are 170 steep steps you must climb down and then back up again. The signs leading to the trail from the parking lot are mostly non-existent. Susan had found the “easy” trail that lets you see the falls from the top without any steps. But trying to find the start of the trail was harder. We trudged along the main trail until a sign said “Easy Trail,” but that was about 800 feet away. We had parked in the wrong parking lot!

Another 1,000 feet away was the view of the Lower Falls.

You can see a path down below. That’s where you get to when you follow the stairs. Paul decided that it was worth it and walked down the stairs. Susan’s knees hadn’t quite recovered from the 127 uneven rock work steps of yesterday so she sat this one out. They were nice and even, ok, not even but way nicer than the ones from the previous day which were just rounded rocks cemented together — except for the bad parts where the rocks had fallen out and there was a rock-shaped ankle-twister of a hole in the mortar.

The view from below wasn’t that great, it was better from above. Paul then wondered what he got himself into. And, hey where’s the stone arch bridge the sign promised!!! Paul decided to turn around and climb back up some and found there was a trail that bent slightly to the right, easy enough to see when returning but “invisible” when coming inbound. He went down those stairs, another 60 of them, and down there the view was great.

And he found the stone arch bridge.

The Lower Falls Arch Bridge is perhaps the best known of Letchworth State Park’s CCC projects. Designed by architect Garrett V.S. Ryerson at an estimated cost of $695, the structure would connect the east and west sides of the Park. Work began early in 1934 by crews from Big Bend Camp 23. The bridge was completed by members of the Lower Falls Camp 49 in the fall of 1935, but it took three more years to complete the east and west approaches and access trails to the new bridge. At the 1939 dedication ceremony, Park Commissioner Wolcott J. Humphrey stated, “We shall be indebted to their work for a great many years.”

We found the Nature Center which was quite nice. They had many exhibits. The one that caught Paul’s eye was an explanation of the various types of rocks. The Lower Falls are made of soft stone and have eroded about a hundred feet in the last hundred or so years. The Middle Falls haven’t moved at all. They also had a aquarium with caterpillars in it that would become cocoons and then Monarch butterflies. The green cocoons were gorgeous.

It was clear that the park was not at peak activity. The parking lots were all enormous and empty. Back to the RV for some dinner and a bit of hanging out. If you recall, the previous day Susan had noticed some big flood lamps pointing at the middle falls. Earlier in the day we had decided to go see them after dinner. We drove the half hour-ish drive to the falls, and they were lit!

The falls were pretty spectacular, I’m not sure the photos do it justice but that’s what we have so that’s what you get to see. They weren’t super bright, just bright enough to see well. The falls sure were pretty at night, perhaps even prettier than the day. They seemed to have more of whatever it is that makes waterfalls beautiful. We agreed that they seem to have more depth to them. Whatever it is it’s terribly difficult to describe.

We did see an opossum, mom and baby deer, and a raccoon on the night time drive, that was fun. Back to the RV for some much needing gaming, where we had a first for us, we tied at the Ticket to Ride game!